HUOM! OPINTOJAKSOJEN TIETOJEN TÄYTTÄMISTÄ KOORDINOIVAT KOULUTUSSUUNNITTELIJAT HANNA-MARI PEURALA JA TIINA HASARI
Surface Water Waves
Aikaisemmat leikkaavat opintojaksot 53548 Veden pinta-aallot, 5 op
-Which degree programme is responsible for the course?
Master's Programme in Atmospheric Sciences
-Which module does the course belong to?
ATM300 Advanced Studies in Atmospheric Sciences (optional for Study Track in Geophysics of the Hydrosphere)
-Is the course available to students from other degree programmes?
Master’s level, degree programmes in medicine, dentistry and veterinary medicine = secondcycle
degree/EQF level 7
Doctoral level = third-cycle (doctoral) degree/EQF level 8
-Does the course belong to basic, intermediate or advanced studies (cf. Government Decree
on University Degrees)?
-The recommended time for completion may be, e.g., after certain relevant courses have
The course will be lectured every other year (odd years) in the I period.
The student will learn
- the properties of the surface water waves and to derive and calculate them
- the properties of the wind-generated waves and the factors that affects the growth of them
- to make simplified wave forecasts
Basic Course in Oceanography, Fluid Phenomena and Mathematical methods (MAPU). Also the Timeseries analysis in Geophysics I is recommended to take before or at the same time as this course.
The courses Hydrodynamics and Timeseries analysis in Geophysics is recommended. Also Turbulence course (Turbulenssioppi) is a good addition.
The course consists of two parts: linear (small amplitude) wave theory and wind-generated waves.
The following aspects of the linear wave theory are studied:
- the shape of the wave, celerity, group velocity, energy, orbital motion, velocity and pressure fields, the influence of the water depth, surface film, capillary wave, methods to solve higher order theories and Stokes’ drift.
The following aspects of the wind-generated waves are studied:
- the irregular nature of the wind-generated waves and the usability of the linear wave theory, the wave spectrum, the generation of the waves by the wind, the growth of the waves and their dissipation, the factors determining the growth of the waves and the energy balance equation of wind-generated waves.
Lecture notes and student’s own notes.
Lamb, H. 1932/1945: Hydrodynamics. Cambridge University Press
Landau-Lifshizt 1959: Fluid Mechanics. Pergamon Press
Holthuijsen, L.H. 2007: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters. Cambridge University Press
Komen et. al 1994: Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves. Cambridge University Press
COST714 WG3 2005: Measuring and analysing the directional spectrum of ocean waves. EC. http://bookshop.europa.eu/en/measuring-and-analysing-the-directional-spectra-of-ocean-waves-pbQSNA21367/ (Chapters 1 and 2, Directional wave spectrum). The chapters 1.2-1.3 and 2.1 -2.2 are part of the introductory lecture to wind-generated waves.
The following books are partly obsolete, but still worth of studing
Kinsman, B. 1965: Wind waves -their generation and propagation on the ocean surface. Prentice-Hall
Phillips O.M. 1977: Dynamics of upper ocean. Cambridge University Press
Kitaigorodskii, S.A.: The physics of air-sea interaction
Weekly lectures and exercises (individual work). The assistant will keep a record on the tasks done: extra points will be given according to tasks completed. Total hours of the course is 135.
The grading scale is the standard scale in Physics.